We stayed in Messolonghi for over a week. No great trial, I really liked the place. Many of the other places we’ve been are very seasonal, and given over to catering for tourists during the summer. Messolonghi is still happliy Greek, and the people we met there were all friendly, Greek, and happy to help us when they could.

We made friends at the local cafe, the Ala Tiera, where we had several delicious meals and watched the F1 Grand Prix on the Sunday.

We had the local Mr Fixit look at the stuffing box and agree with me that the fix I’d done initially was probably better that the one the Vathy expert had done. He modified the current fix, did a better job and charged only €20…. €10 being for some glue.

The weather was against us and we stayed longer than we expected, but the stay was mostly pleasant. One night, our second in Messolonghi, we were tied up stern-to again, with the anchor well dug in and about 50m of chain out when one of those Greek thunderstorms came along again. My guess is the wind was at least 60kts, and probably more than 70.

We were in about 6m of water and the bottom was thick, sticky mud. The wind attacked us from the side, so if the anchor was ever going to drag, this would be the time. Surprise of surprises, she held, while we watched anxiously. We were of course inside the boat, and had the hatch cover in place. The wind was blowing the rain sideways with great force. Opening the hatch would be an invitation to have the contents of the boat drenched. After about half an hour the storm eased and we started breathing again. She held! Amazing.

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