After a beautiful night tied up at Pera Pigadhi (our favourite, Rocky Bay) on Ithaca, we set out at 6:30am for Messolonghi, over on the mainland.

It’s about 30 miles and an all-day sail (or in this case, motor), and it was pretty much uneventful. Except for the leaking stuffing box. Thought I’d forgotten it, didn’t you?

Every hour or so, I had to go below and pump water from beneath and around the engine. In the course of the crossing I must have pumped out about 15 buckets full. Surely, there must be some else wrong here. The leak is mostly fixed and gives, at worst, a steady “drip-drip-drip”. What could be wrong here?

Whatever the problem, we had little confidence in the boat by this stage.

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